On Saturday 1st March, the Society organised a day trip to Trim castle and Loughcrew megalithic complex. Here are the words from our Senior Treasurer, Dr. Steve Davis. Photographs courtesy of ACM Katherine Mc Cormack.
"On Saturday 1
st March UCD
Archaeology Society ran its first trip of Semester 2 to Meath, taking in Trim
Castle, the Hill of Lloyd and Loughcrew passage tomb cemetery. The trip was
organised by our Trip and Tours officer, Emmet O Fionnalaigh and was a
sell-out, with over 40 people signed up to attend.
Leaving UCD at 9:30 our first stop was Trim
Castle – the largest stone-built Anglo-Norman Castle in Ireland, located on the
banks of the Boyne in Trim. The castle was commissioned by Hugh de Lacy, Lord
of Meath at the time of the Anglo-Norman ‘invasion’ of 1172 and took
approximately 30 years to complete. It is also perhaps better known
internationally as the place where the movie ‘Braveheart’ was filmed. Owing to
some crossed lines of communication our time actually spent inside the curtain
wall was brief and we didn’t unfortunately get to go into the keep. Instead we
were treated to an excellent and informative demonstration and tour of the
exterior of the castle by Paddy from Trim Living History Group, and had our
photograph taken with Deputy Ray Butler, the Trim TD (watch the Meath
Chronicle!). In particular, Paddy had a wealth of entertaining stories about
the filming of Braveheart, and his tour was very much enjoyed.
From Trim we headed to the Hill of Lloyd
(known in Irish as Mullach Aiti), which lies just west of Kells. Unfortunately
our bus driver took rather an innovative approach to directions and headed 30km
west before doubling back eastwards to the M3, following a number of tractors
along the way. The Hill of Lloyd is a hillfort, probably dating to the Bronze
Age, but with some of its fortification enclosures apparently modified to
include additional rounds of banks and ditches. This closely-spaced multiple
vallation is considered to be an Iron Age phenomenon in Ireland. Not only that,
but despite being 40km from the sea it is topped by a lighthouse – the Spire of
Lloyd. This was designed by Henry Aaron Baker and built by the 1st
Earl of Bective in memory of his father in 1791, serving also to provide
employment for local labourers in a time of hardship. The Hill was also used as
a burial ground at the time of the famine and local folklore suggests that
destitute people used to live on the Hill at this time.
The Spire is opened on occasional weekends
by a local heritage group, and we were fortunate that the trip coincided with
one of those days. In a flat county, even small elevations provide magnificent
views, and from the top of the 30m Spire (up a 165-stair spiral staircase!)
these views were breathtaking, with Loughcrew – our next and final stop – being
a dominant landscape feature.
Our final stop was at one of the most
special and perhaps unspoilt archaeological sites in Ireland – Loughcrew
passage tomb cemetery. Loughcrew (Irish name: Sliabh na Callighe – the Mountain
of the Witch), like the great Boyne Valley tombs (Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth)
dates from somewhere in the mid-Neolithic and represents an outstanding example
of a cultural phenomenon which seems to have spanned the Atlantic coast of
Europe from Orkney to the south of Portugal.
We were fortunate to have Prof. Muiris
O’Sullivan with us for the day who is an internationally recognised expert on
passage tombs and in particular the megalithic art for which Loughcrew, like
Brú na Bóinne is famed. Following an overlong and unnecessary (but,
nevertheless impressive!) reversing manoeuvre we headed off up the hillside
towards Cairn T. The series of hills that comprise Loughcrew are littered with
tombs; however, only one hilltop is easily accessible (a deposit has to be left
to acquire the key for Cairn T, in the order of €50, at the Loughcrew Gardens
coffee shop). On the way to the top we passed over the remains of extensive
ridge and furrow cultivation, probably famine-era ‘lazy bedding’, and a number
of older, possibly prehistoric field boundaries. Loughcrew is an exposed spot –
the highest point in Meath, although given that Meath is a pretty flat county
that is no great claim to fame – but the views from the summit are again
magnificent. On the hilltop we split into small groups who took it in turns to
go into the main tomb (Cairn T) with Muiris. Cairn T is particularly noted for the
in highly-decorated roofstone and backstone in its end recess (in a cruciform
chamber, the one in front of you!) which is illuminated on both the spring and
autumn equinoxes. Much fun was had by all (but especially Katherine!) exploring
the tombs and looking for decorated stones.
All in all it was, despite a few early
hiccups, a fantastically successful trip and one which those who participated
in will have lasting memories of. A big thumbs up to all concerned.
A little suggested reading
Cooney, G. 1997. The Passage Tomb
Phenomenon in Ireland. Archaeology Ireland 11.3 (Supplement: Brú na Bóinne), 7-8.
Cooney, G. 2000. Sliabh na Callighe through
time: Loughcrew, Co. Meath. Archaeology Ireland Heritage Guide, No. 12.
Sheridan, A. 1995. Megaliths and Megalomania:
An Account, and Interpretation, of the Development of Passage Tombs in Ireland.
Journal of Irish Archaeology 3, 17-30.
Haydn, A. 2011. Excavations at Trim Castle
1995-98. Wordwell, Dublin.
Raftery, B. 1972. Irish Hill-forts. In C.
Thomas (ed.) The Iron Age in the Irish Sea Province. Council for British
Archaeology Research Report No 9: 37–58.
Shee Twohig, E., Roughley, C., Shell, C.,
O’Reilly, C., Clarke, P. and Swanton, G. 2010. Open-air rock art at Loughcrew,
Co. Meath. Journal of Irish Archaeology 19, 1-28.